This film has seen its share of controversies. And several of them center around the fashion choices - both on screen and on the red carpet. Fashion was one more vehicle for the film’s critics to express outrage over what were perceived as historical inaccuracies which bled in to debates over identity, representation and even climate change.

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On Screen: Armor Wars

The main on screen fashion debates have been over the armor worn by both Odysseus (Matt Damon) and Agamemnon (Benny Safdie). Critics point out that the Odyssey takes place during the Mycenaean Period when armor was made out of bronze but Damon’s armor appears to be made of iron - it isn’t shiny like new bronze or blue-green like older, worn bronze. Experts also note he is also wearing a Corinthian helmet, which came later than the period of the Odyssey.

Okay, but the Odyssey is not an actual historical event - it is a poem based on oral stories, so does the exact shade of armor really matter? IMHO the historical accuracy is less important than if the costumes look good. And here, Nolan is getting some well-deserved shade (pun intended).

Benny Safdie’s King Agamemnon is giving Batman, another Nolan production. And the overall aesthetic is very drab, which some viewers find “boring.” This is compared to other similar period films like 300 and Troy, which employ much more exciting adornments.

In the Odyssey Jon Bernthal and Tom Holland look more like modern Ren Faire attendees than stars of a $250 million Nolan joint.

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Off Screen:

Of course the red carpet controversies have focused on the female actors. Zendaya, who plays Athena, was dinged multiple times in the press for some real and some exaggerated criticisms.

First, at the London premiere she wore a custom Schiaparelli couture gown that was flown on its own private jet from Paris immediately after the dress debuted on the Paris Haute Couture runway. Girl, this is something even climate change deniers can’t get behind. Sure, she looks incredible, but wouldn’t this look work at the Paris premiere held 2 days later and requiring no dress transport?

Zendaya came under fire later on the press tour for wearing what archaeologists have called ancient Iranian artifacts. They were acquired by a British jewelry designer and critics have said they should be returned to Iran or preserved in a museum, rather than paraded around.

The other female stars (Anne Hathaway as Penelope, Charlize Theron as Calypso, and Lupito Nyong’o as Helen of Troy) each adopted a form of method dressing at various press events - channeling both Greek-inspired design elements and nods to their characters. They all managed to achieve distinct looks that married the modern and the ancient very well.

Theron plays a sea nymph so her fits had flowing, water-like elements and textures.

My favorite of the red carpet looks was Nyong’o at the final event in New York. Note her adorable custom Olympia Le-Tan Odyssey clutch. The best part - she is wearing $110 Aldo shoes alongside two massive uncut diamonds!

I’ll close with another note on representation. Despite this being a story of Greek origin, Nolan was called out for his lack of casting any Greek actors. All of this matters because Nolan said himself that he based his interpretation of the Odyssey on Emily Wilson’s translation. Wilson was the first woman to translate the Odyssey and she intentionally addressed issues of marginalization and misogyny in her version. Sadly, Nolan’s take seems to have perpetuated marginalization, rather than addressed it, as Wilson’s own scathing review of the film notes.

You may have heard about a certain little wedding that took place in NYC recently. While I will leave the analysis of the fits from T&T’s nuptials to the Swifties, I thought this would be a good time to dig into wedding fits.

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American Wedding Fashion Traditions

America’s wedding fashion traditions come, not surprisingly, from the Brits. And while many are considered “timeless”, in fact most are pretty recent inventions.

The white wedding dress did not enter American canon until the mid-1800s when Yankee brides decided to pay homage to Queen Victoria who wore a white dress in her wedding to Prince Albert.

Before Victoria, most American (and European) women wore a dress they already had, as purchasing a new dress just for one day was seen as financially wasteful and impractical. Colors were all over the place, from silver and blue to red - whatever the color of your finest dress would do. For women of lower classes, this often meant wearing a black dress to your wedding.

The white tradition was also about status. Re-wearing a white dress (as was common in those days) required the means to be able to clean it post-fete. Only the wealthiest women could afford such a luxury. Thus, white symbolized wealth, not purity.

Bucking the Trend

Several prominent American celebrities and fashion icons over the years have opted out of the white wedding dress tradition.

Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue

This tradition comes from an Old English rhyme from the 1800s that also managed to make it across the pond. The full rhyme, which also includes “a silver sixpence in her shoe” is meant to connect the bride both to her family and past (old) and her future (new). It is also meant to ensure a happy marriage by borrowing something from someone in a successful marriage and warding off the evil eye with something blue. The sixpence (which I wore in my shoe on my wedding day) is meant to bring prosperity.

Royal Wedding Dresses - the Ultimate Soft Power Move

I have royals on the brain, as I was in Edinburgh during “Royal Week” earlier this month surrounded by royals ancient and modern. And perhaps no wedding attire is more political or more scrutinized than that of a royal bride.

Many of the British royals have achieved the right balance of tradition, glamour and respect for current affairs in their wedding fits. Queen Elizabeth II, who married Philip Mountbatten in 1947 wore a dress with 10,000 seed pearls that took 350 women seven weeks to make. But in a nod to the wartime rationing of the era, she saved up clothing coupons to pay for her dress. British women supported the effort and mailed then-Princess Elizabeth their own coupons, which the British government was legally required to return.

Princess Diana stunned at her 1981 wedding to Prince Charles. Her train was a record 25 feet long. She somehow managed to exude both “People’s Princess” and ultimate queen at the same time.

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In Spain, King Felipe’s 2004 wedding to Queen Letizia produced one of the most expensive wedding dresses in history - an $8 million dress sewn with real gold thread. Queen Letizia also broke with tradition by appearing in a white Armani pantsuit to announce her engagement - intentionally signaling a new, modern era for Spanish royalty.

Many royals have partnered with famous fashion houses on their dresses. Valentino Garavani of Valentino designed three royal wedding dresses: Crown Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece, Princess Madeline of Sweden, and Queen Maxima of the Netherlands.

In Jordan, Princess Rajwa Al Saif chose Arab designer Elie Saab for her 2023 wedding and incorporated several nods to her Saudi and broader Middle Eastern heritage in the gown.

Former British royal Meghan Markle’s 2018 dress both honored and broke with British tradition. She chose a non-British designer (Givenchy haute couture) but had artisans embroider her veil with symbols representing the 53 Commonwealth nations - a feat that took 4,000 hours of work.

Perhaps the biggest wedding dress influencer was American Grace Kelly who married Monaco’s Prince Rainier III in 1956. Her iconic dress has influenced many other high-profile brides including Kate Middleton.

What do we mean by “off the pitch”?

While the team jerseys get the most air time, World Cup kits can also include travel wear, pre-match tunnel looks and arrival outfits.

A wide variety of teams have partnered with fashion houses on their travel/arrival outfits - typically more formal, higher-end wear. As you can see in the chart below, some are wearing local designers while others are branching out in to more well-known, but not local brands.

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Some of the travel looks are really stunning. These guys look more like they belong on the pages of a fashion magazine than on a football pitch.

Collabs

This year the World Cup is seeing a vast uptick in the number of designers collaborating with national teams, a reflection of the growing influence of fashion on the sport.

One reason for the larger number of collabs is a Nike program, X2, which pairs seven designers with seven national teams to create capsule collections and pre-match wear. One cool aspect of this campaign is that each designer is highlighting a local youth sports organization, displaying its logo on the jersey for increased visibility for these important groups.

1. France x Jacquemus: French luxury designer Jacquemus designed the pre-match jersey for Les Bleus and is selling a capsule collection to go with it.

   

2. England x Palace Skateboards: The British sportswear company is selling many different themed items. The campaign even has a YouTube short with famed British footballer Wayne Rooney in an Elizabethan ruff reciting Shakespeare:

3. South Korea × Peaceminusone: The collab between K-Pop star G-Dragon’s fashion label features a pre-match jersey with the brand’s signature daisy with red and blue petals to represent the Korean flag.

   

   USA × Virgil Abloh Archive — This collab is a nod to the late designer’s love of soccer and reflects a vintage feel to mirror the 1994 US soccer kits.

   

4. Nigeria × Olaolu Slawn — London-based Nigerian born designer Slawn who is known for his graffiti style created the Nigerian pre-match jersey and collection with a hand-drawn interpretation of the wings of the Super Eagles’ team mascot.

   

5. Canada × NOCTA — Canadian superstar Drake’s Nike sub-label NOCTA has a robust maple leaf-inspired capsule that can outfit you down to your skivvies.

   

6. Netherlands × Patta — I mentioned this collab in last week’s Fits & Facts. The Dutch designer is leaning heavily into the team’s signature orange and references the fashion house founders’ Surinamese-Dutch heritage.

In addition to the Nike X2 campaign, several other teams also collaborated with designers:

Japan × Yohji Yamamoto — Japan's away kit was designed by Adidas in collaboration with Japenese designer Yohji Yamamoto. The kit features 12 different colored vertical stripes on a beige base, representing each of the team's eleven players plus an extra stripe for the fans. Yamamoto even unveiled the design at Paris Fashion Week!

Adidas: Mexico × Someone Somewhere + Willy Chavarria

Adidas partnered with Mexican social-impact brand Someone Somewhere on Mexico’s third kit — a limited-edition six-piece collection hand-stiched by 150 female artisans from the Sierra Norte de Puebla region, each piece including a QR code linking to the individual artisan who helped create it. Separately, designer Willy Chavarria created a Mexico × Adidas capsule with his signature oversized shapes and deep colors.

Puma x Salehe Bembury

Salehe Bembury designed goalkeeper kits, which are distinct from the rest of the team’s jerseys, and travel wear for the teams Puma outfitted— including Portugal’s bright pink kit and Austria’s sky-blue florals.

Which collab is your favorite? Reply in the comments with your vote:

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There is no question that this year’s World Cup has elevated the presence of high fashion to a new level. Social media has already transformed athletes into global lifestyle figures and fashion houses are smart to capitalize on the team kit and travel/arrival wear as brand amplifying moments on steroids. According to FIFA, at least 6 billion people will watch at least one game making this an opportunity not to be missed!

The story closest to home is the anger over the fact that Team USA’s jerseys are not made in the USA. The Nike kits, which were designed in Oregon, were manufactured in Thailand, subjecting them to tariffs and flying in the face of the “America First” agenda. Has anyone told Donald?

Nike also came under fire for quality issues on several of its kits and has been tied up in controversies over past kit updates including changing the color of St. George’s Cross on England’s jerseys in 2024, prompting outcry all the way up to Rishi Sunak and Keir Starmer.

Despite Nike’s gaffes, it is still one of the big three sportswear companies dominating the World Cup.

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Two teams changed their kits after their initial debut, following public backlash. Jordan launched a red Brazil jersey whose production had to be halted tout suite in favor of its traditional blue and yellow jerseys. And Adidas came under fire for allegedly exploiting indigenous women to sew Team Mexico’s jerseys after already facing fan criticism for the 2026 design’s lack of originality.

And Nike’s collab with Patta for a “New Netherlands” campaign launching the Dutch pre-game kit sparked the ire of the far-right as being “too woke” 🙄.

There are several other designer collabs that I will cover in the next Fits & Facts when we dive into arrival outfits and off-the-field looks, which really show how this World Cup represents a qualitative shift in how fashion and football intersect.

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One crucial point in analyzing team jerseys is that FIFA regulations prohibit sponsor advertising on team playing kits. This is quite different from club jerseys. So World Cup match jerseys can only include the team crest, kit manufacturer’s logo, and the player’s number. Thus, every design decision on a World Cup jersey is, essentially, a way to communicate national identity.

Lest you think this is some sort of moral highground FIFA has adopted, let’s be clear that it is a purely selfish move to focus all sponsor dollars on FIFA itself, rather than individual national teams.

But, the lack of massive sponsor logos allows each team to use the jersey as a canvas to express their identity, history, and pride in many different ways.1

Fonts

Several teams are using new fonts, created explicitly for their team kits, to send a message. South Korea worked with Nike to design a unique font that incorporates elements of traditional South Korean calligraphy.

Norway also worked with Nike on a unique font, opting for one that resembles Norse runes.

Fabric Embellishments

Another way to incorporate national symbols is through woven, almost hidden, elements. Morocco’s home and away kits each have traditional elements. The away kit has subtle sand-colored patterning reminiscent of the country’s zellige tiles. The home kit has a button collar and intricate woven detailing on the collar and cuffs that both mirror traditional Moroccan garments.

Argentina’s away jerseys have been polarizing but the swirls of blue foliage are a clear nod to the Fileteado Porteño street art that is common across Buenos Aires. And the home jersey blends three distinct shades of blue drawn from the 1978, 1986, and 2022 World Cup-winning shirts, uniting their three championships in a single garment.

South Africa has also woven its history into its fabric. The country’s home kit has graphic lines woven into the fabric referencing the country's 12 official languages — a design detail first seen on the 2010 World Cup shirt.

Belgium’s home jerseys are pretty standard, but the away jerseys have two nods to one of the country’s most famous artists - René Magritte. The pastel blue and pink design merges the “B” of Belgium's crest with the giant spherical bells from Magritte's 1928 work La Voix des Airs. And inside the collar reads, “Ceci n’est pas un maillot” (this is not a jersey), another Magritte reference.

Ghana’s home kit has a colorful spider-web like design meant to evoke Kwaku Ananse, a spider figure from West African folklore.

France’s away kit is a bit cheeky - designed to mimic the Statue of Liberty, France’s gift to the United States, with light green and bronze accents and the phrase “Liberty: our differences unite us” under the Statue of Liberty’s crown.

Each country has truly adopted a unique way to express its national identity and pride within a small, but highly visible canvas and this only scratches the surface. For those of you watching the World Cup, I hope this Fits & Facts inspires you to pause the TV and check out the jerseys and all that went into them.

For those of you new to Fits & Facts, periodically I write a “Quick Fit” where I share some of my favorite fashion hacks and things I am eyeing. Now that it is officially summer here in the Northern Hemisphere I wanted to turn to some ways I stay cool and dry in the Washington swamp.

Hats

Summer means heat and lots of humidity in DC. For me, that means I can resemble Monica from Friends if I am not careful. A wide-brimmed hat is therefore my best friend this time of year. More importantly, hats keep you cooler and protect your beautiful mug from sun damage.

Luckily, gone are the days of fugly sun hats. Today there are SO many options for cute head coverings at every price point. Here are three of my favorites. And if all else fails, a baseball cap is a great way to shade your face in a pinch.

1. Lanzom Wide Brim Straw Panama Roll up Hat - This hat was touted by actress Casey Wilson on the Bitch Sesh podcast as a great affordable and packable hat and I could not agree more. I have carted this baby all over the world and back for about 2 years now and she is still going strong.

2. Tuckernuck “Toucan Packable Wide Bow Sunhat”- I have been eyeing this hat for a long time and just spotted it IRL over the weekend. Its wearer said it is very comfortable and packable.

3. Your Stylist Says “the Best Hat”- This puppy will keep you fully covered. It is large but lightweight and offers incredible sun protection. It is also all the rage for the LA mom set. I have taken mine to Colombia and the Caribbean and can report that it was no worse for the wear after riding in a carry on for multiple hours. The genius behind the brand is stylist to the stars Abby Arad whose Substack is consistently one of my favorite reads.

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Sunscreen

Protect that skin! I grew up in the era of tanning beds and tanning oil and my skin is starting to show signs of teenage neglect. TBH, the best sunscreen is the one you wear, but here are some tried and true choices for daily sunscreen use:

1. I like the feel of Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen. It has a gel-like consistency and is truly invisible once you put it on. I also love their PLAY line for lotion for beach or pool days.

2. EltaMD UV Clear is a mineral sunscreen that actually goes on clear. I have seen it recommended by several dermatologists and have been wearing it for about six months now. They make a great tinted version and have different products that address various skin concerns. (I just noticed when sharing this that the “clear” version I use is actually for people prone to acne or rosacea. 🤷🏼‍♀️)

3. I have to admit that I have been sucked in by the cuteness and 80s nostalgia of Vacation’s products. They make several TSA friendly products which are great for a trip or to stash in your bag. They tout themselves as the “best smelling” and if you were around in the 80s or 90s, you will likely agree.

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Shoes: An Ode to Jellies

I have learned the hard way that jelly shoes are very polarizing (cue teenage eye roll). But one look in my shoe cabinet and you can see that I am unapologetically team jelly! Chalk it up to comfort, ease or nostalgia (I still remember my glorious clear jellies from the 80s that I swore protected me from lightening storms), but whatever the reason, jellies are my go-to in the summer, particularly in wet weather.

1. Old Navy Jelly Mules- These are the most traditional jellies. I wear them to garden and to run errands. Very comfortable but not super interesting.

2. Tory Burch Miller Jelly Sandal- These are my high end jellies. They are great for a night out but are not super comfortable for walking many miles, as they have very little sole support.

3. Jeffrey Campbell Jellz- These are my professional jellies. They are matte, rather than shiny, which gives them a more grown up look. I wore them all over Senegal, on dusty and uneven sidewalks, to work meetings, and to the beach and they held up perfectly. At the end of each day, I would just give them a quick rinse in the sink and they looked good as new.

Cardigans/Jackets

It may seem odd to mention outer layers when the mercury is over 90, but sadly in our overly air conditioned society the temperature outside can have little bearing on the temperature inside.

I’m currently sitting in my office covered in a wool blanket, with a space heater on, despite the 96 degree temps outside, so I know a thing or two about summer-appropriate outerwear.

1. Quince 100% Organic Cotton Cropped Cardigan. This is a favorite around my office. It works in all seasons, is cute over a dress or a t-shirt, and has a really nice texture and drape.

2. WEWOREWHAT Cape Trench Jacket. I am a massive devotee of Rent the Runway. As a fashion fan with a limited closet and budget, RTR is how I am able to keep a constant rotation of new clothes in a sustainable and affordable way. I recently rented this jacket and do not want to return it. It is adorable and so chic/practical for warmer weather. It is giving Sherlock Holmes in the best way.

3. Zara Linen Blazer with Rolled Sleeves. Nothing says summer like linen, and for good reason. It is breathable and cool while looking classy. I recommend keeping a linen blazer around for cold conference rooms or if you otherwise need to cover up in the summer. I love the look of a linen suit, too. I recently bought this blazer and pant set and have received a lot of compliments on it.

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A few more things I rely on in the summer:

1. Shark ChillPill - I am a recently converted Shark devotee (buh-bye Dyson and your super expensive yet constantly malfunctioning vacuums) and am testing this out for when DC hits 100 degrees, as it is wont to do every year. My daughter took it to school recently and loved it. I am especially looking forward to using the cooling pad on the back of my neck.

2. JISULIFE Handheld Mini Fan - These fans get consistently great reviews and are both very portable and affordable. And they come in cute animal shapes. What’s not to love?

3. Sunglasses - Did you know that your eyes can get sunburned? Even with a fabulous hat, you should be protecting those peepers year round. Sunglasses are a very personal choice, but let me offer another shout out to Quince here. They make several cute, but affordable lenses, including dupes of some high end brands. I’m a fan of the Berlin Polarized Acetate sunnies which look way more expensive than they are, are super comfortable and lightweight on the face, but not fragile.

I will close with a shoutout to Andy Cohen, who is so far getting my vote for best look of summer 2026. Hit me up if you know where I can get a woman’s version of this amazing pink suit!

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Origins of the Kaftan: A Garment as Old as Time

Despite Morocco and Algeria each claiming to have invented the kaftan (also spelled caftan), its roots actually go all the way back to around 2500-3000 BCE where nobility in Mesopotamia and Persia donned varieties of robes or tunics made of silk or wool and adorned with gems and embroidery to denote one’s status.

During the Ottoman Empire, kaftans took off and became a crucial part of court attire. Kaftans spread throughout the Empire, which at its peak in the late 1600s, spanned parts of Europe, Asia, the Middle East and North Africa. The Ottomans used the kaftan as a form of diplomatic currency - designing and gifting kaftans to visiting foreign dignitaries and ambassadors, further spreading the influence of the garment.

North Africa Enters the Playing Field

Despite its origins centuries before reaching North Africa, both Morocco and Algeria lay claim to the kaftan and even have competing entries in UNESCO’s Lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage, which are meant to safeguard a country’s traditions.

Algeria adopted the kaftan from the Ottomans and made it their own. The earliest and most well-known Algerian kaftans are part of the bridal kit known as the Chedda. The Tlemcen region in northwest Algeria originated the Chedda in the 1400s, and it was traditionally worn by princesses or other nobility. It evolved over time, taking on aspects of Ottoman, Arab, Amazigh and Andualusian fashion. The entire Chedda usually contains a velvet caftan with gold embroidery and adorned with pearls in addition to a special cap and jewelry as well as gold silk scarves and adornments.

Today, Algerian men and women continue to don kaftans for a variety of functions, some more modern and others more traditional.

Morocco’s kaftan origins are separate from Algeria’s, having never been conquered by the Ottomans. Instead, Morocco’s kaftans came from the Jews and Moors who fled south after being expelled from Spain. Morocco’s garments therefore have a specific style with influences from Spanish, Sephardic Jewish, Arab, and Amazigh cultures. Different regions in Morocco have developed their own particular styles, particularly around buttons and thread.

In Morocco, the Ntaâ kaftan, named after a type of embroidery used on velvet (usually black) produced in Fez, is one of the most well known versions of the garment, and has even been worn by global celebrities.2 The gold thread work used in traditional Moroccan kaftans was a speciality of Jewish artisans who had been expelled from Spain and Italy and settled in Fez.

While the kaftan had primarily been worn by men in the Ottoman Empire, Moroccan woman adopted and adapted the kaftan, and today it remains an important part of Moroccan women’s dress for social, family and religious events.

2023: Things Get Spicy

In 2023 Morocco accused Algeria of cultural appropriation in its application to the UNESCO list. According to the Moroccan Ministry of Culture, Algeria’s entry includes a photo of a Moroccan kaftan stolen from a museum in Amsterdam. The fight was not just ceremonial. Both countries unleashed expensive social media campaigns to make their claims and disparage the other side.

The fight over the origins of the kaftan mirror that of other cultural disagreements between the neighbors, such as over who invented couscous, Rai and Gnawa music, or the Zellige tile. Rather than divide the countries, however, these fights should make clear the deeply shared cultural heritage between the two peoples.

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The Kaftan in North Africa Today

Moroccan designers, in particular, continue to adapt the kaftan to modern trends and keep it relevant within Moroccan social circles.

Designer Bouchra Filali Lahloum, who is originally from Fez but based in Casablanca, is one of the most famous kaftan couture designers today. She masterfully incorporates traditional elements with modern designs and uses Italian fabrics and has shown her kaftans on runways in Dubai, Paris and Marrakesh. Another Moroccan designer, Zhor Raïs, considers herself the kaftan ambassador and only uses Moroccan brocade and thread.

One of Algeria’s most famous designers is Yasmina Chellali, who works to preserve Algerian fashion traditions. She trained in Paris and returned to Algeria in the 1960s to start the first haute couture house there. But she has not focused on the kaftan, instead focusing on other distinctively Algerian garments such as the karakou (velvet embroidered jacket) and the gandoura (embroidered black or burgundy velvet dress).

The bottom line is that no one owns the kaftan - although the indomitable Carol Burnett, at age 92, does own the kaftan in Palm Royale. May we all be this glamorous in our 90s!

The previous week I found myself, by chance, on my own alma mater’s campus the day after the 2026 commencement. It was a bit surreal to see undergrads taking photos in their caps and gowns in the same spots where I photographed myself many years earlier.

I mention this because our topic today is graduation attire - why American grads wear robes and mortar boards and what explains all the even stranger British academic fashions.

I have worn my fair share of academic robes, and TBH they are all pretty similar. While some high schools and universities change the color of the robe, most use the standard black cap and gown, with various adornments for the type of degree or particular honors.

European Origins

Modern academic dress got its start in medieval Europe. Some of the earliest universities in Bologna (founded 1088), Paris (c. 1150), and Oxford (c. 1167) began as cathedral schools, so the gown and hood worn at the time were in line with standard dress of clergy of that era. The hood was purely functional at first - useful for drafty stone buildings. The cap evolved from a “coif” - a form of close-fitting cloth hat worn by clergy.

And the mortarboard, which made its appearance in the 15th-16th centuries likely evolved from the “biretta” worn by Catholic priests.

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American Adaptations

American universities came about much later - Harvard, the oldest, was founded in 1636 and William & Mary in 1693. Not surprisingly, American academics modeled themselves on the British, although initially there was no consistent US academic dress code.

But in 1893, some American university leaders decided there should be a defining dress code for the growing number of American graduates. Princeton University Trustee John J. McCook invited representatives from Columbia University, New York University, and Yale University to join Princeton in an “Intercollegiate Commission on Academic Costume” where in 1895 they established the Intercollegiate Registry of Academic Costume which still exists today.1

American hoods - used primarily for graduate school grads - are the most colorful and distinct from each other.

The Wild World of British Academic Dress

Sort of like the shift from Lord, Lady, Sir, Dame, etc. to Mr./Ms., America took British academic dress and simplified it.

A great example of the complexity of British dress is the dizzying current official Cambridge graduation flowchart (thanks to loyal reader and Cambridge student Erica Hogan for sharing this).

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For the Brits, academic dress is not just about graduation. For matriculation (when you enter the university) you also wear academic dress. And you typically wear it for exams and formal dinners. Loyal reader and current Oxford student Natalie Triche shared some photos of her matriculation. She noted that at her college they do not wear academic dress for formal dinners because they were founded as a woman’s college and women were not allowed to wear academic dress until around 1920.

Congratulations to all the 2026 graduates wherever you are!

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Please let me know what you want me to cover in upcoming editions of Fits & Facts.

Eurovision is an incredible event, aesthetically as well as musically. While there are certainly some very talented musicians, others use fashion and spectacle to distract from their…less than perfect vocal performances.

Some of the most famous musical acts over the years got their big break during Eurovision - ABBA won for Sweden in 1974 with Waterloo dressed in some truly iconic 70s fits and beating fellow contestant Olivia Newton-John.

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A little lady named Céline Dion represented Switzerland 🤷🏼‍♀️ and won in 1998. Julio Iglesias came in 4th for Spain in 1970. And Riverdance launched their career with a win for Ireland in 1994.

This year, Eurovision is in the news for political, rather than artistic reasons with several countries boycotting. So I have a very special Fits & Facts, an interview with my fantastic colleague Charlie Johnson whose recent article unpacks the current boycott and Eurovision’s political history.

Sarah: Which countries are boycotting and why?

Charlie: In December 2025, broadcasters from five countries—Iceland, Ireland, the Netherlands, Slovenia, and Spain—announced a boycott of the Eurovision Song Contest (ESC). The news came after the contest’s organizer, the European Broadcasting Union, avoided a vote on Israel’s participation that had been announced in September 2025 to address Israel’s bombardment of the Gaza Strip and an Israeli government’s campaign to sway voting at ESC 2025.

While these absences mark a major development in Eurovision politics, the boycott over Israel is nothing new. In fact, Israel’s debut at the contest in 1973 implicitly introduced an Arab League boycott over Palestinian human rights and national aspirations from contest-eligible broadcasters across the Middle East and North Africa. Though some of those states have since normalized relations with Israel, the absences of Algeria, Lebanon, Libya, Tunisia, and Turkey this year can all be read, at least in part, as boycotts of Israel.

Sarah: The Finals are tomorrow. What do you think the reaction might be if Israel wins Eurovision?

Charlie: We received an enlightening test run for such an outcome last year, when Israeli performer Yuval Raphael spent nearly 10 minutes at the top of the results only to be defeated by the final remaining contestant, Austria’s JJ with “Wasted Love.” Long-time Eurovision commentator Graham Norton summed up the moment’s collective exhale while live on the BBC, remarking that contest organizers would be “breathing the largest sigh of relief that they’re not faced with a Tel Aviv final next year.”

Since that observation, the situation has improved slightly, with a ceasefire declared in October 2025 causing some of the political tension surrounding Israel to abate. Still, the Israeli military has killed over 700 Palestinians in Gaza during the ceasefire, contributing to ongoing boycotts not only from broadcasters but also fans and musicians. At the contest too, chants of “Stop the genocide” could be heard over the Israeli artist Noam Bettan’s performance while at least two audience members visibly displayed Palestinian flags as he exited the stage. The BBC also reported that multiple audience members were removed for “disruptive behaviour,” including one man with the words “Free Palestine” written on his chest.

Sarah: Given this drama, how can we understand Eurovision’s role in politics?

Charlie: The Eurovision stage has felt particularly politicized in recent years in the wake of an emerging multipolar world order. In general, artists use the stage to gain visibility and compete to win at the contest. But because these artists compete under national flags and country names on behalf of public service broadcasters dependent on government funding, some states pursue ulterior agendas at Eurovision. These goals could be putting forth a particular national image, communicating a subtle political agenda, or simply associating with specific values Eurovision has come to represent, such as liberalism, Western democracy, or inclusive attitudes and an embrace of diversity. Without a concerted effort at reform, participation at Eurovision can continue to serve as cynical soft power tool used by those seeking to abuse the contest’s stage.

Sarah: For people new to Eurovision, are there any particular acts they should check out?

Charlie: To new audiences, I always recommend some of Eurovision’s recent hits that might already be familiar, such as Duncan Laurence’s winning act at ESC 2019, “Arcade,” or two-time winner Loreen’s “Euphoria” (2012) and “Tattoo” (2023).

But since its opening contest in 1956, Eurovision has had no shortage of iconic acts. To get a feel for Eurovision’s early years, I would recommend Domenico Modugno’s “Nel blu, dipinto di blu,” or as many have come to know it, “Volare.” While the entry placed third at ESC 1958, it went on to win both song and record of the year at the inaugural Grammy Awards, cementing Modugno and Eurovision in music history.

Finally, this list would not be complete without transgender artist Dana International’s “Diva,” which not only won Eurovision 1998 [for Israel] but emphatically and openly cemented the institution as a pillar of LGBTQ+ iconography.

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Sarah: In light of this storied history, what are some fashion callbacks we should look out for this year in the Eurovision Finals?

Charlie: This year is filled with callbacks, intentional or not, to some of Eurovision’s most recognizable fashion moments.

Italy’s performance masterfully choreographs Italian fashion as the backdrop to Sal da Vinci’s nuptial love song. However, this year’s act is also heavy on the 1980s nostalgia, and there is a particular moment [around 2:35 in the video above] where the groom and groomsmen hold the bride’s dress as she unfurls it to reveal an Italian flag. Longtime fans cannot help but discern a playful wink to the groundbreaking tear-away skirts that helped seal Bucks Fizz’s victory at ESC 1981.

Sticking with the Italian theme, Jonas Lovv, in his rock anthem “Ya ya ya” for Norway, seems to be emulating the raw energy, crimson aesthetics, and (most importantly) shirtless leather suspenders of Italian rock band and ESC 2021 winner, Måneskin.

While these bands have no deficiency of grit, the heaviest act of ESC 2026 by far is Serbia’s “Kraj mene.” With studded leather sufficient to equip a small medieval army and chromatic nail extensions that would make even Loreen blush, heavy metal band Lavina leans all the way into the hardcore metal aesthetic, directly invoking ESC 2006 winner Lordi, who sang “Hard Rock Hallelujah” in full monster regalia.

To contrast these demonic looks, others have struck a more ethereal tone. Australia’s Delta Goodrem, with her flawless power ballad, “Eclipse,” performed in a stunning gold sequined dress, fully channels the most unforgettable components of Conchita Wurst’s ESC 2014 winner, “Rise Like a Phoenix.”

Eurovision’s finale airs on Saturday, May 16 at 3:00 PM ET. You can watch on Peacock or Eurovision’s YouTube channel. Come for the songs, stay for the fashion.

I attended my first Kentucky Derby last weekend. It was a wild ride - from the hats to the people handing out cocktails at 9 am to the unexpected results of the race itself (way to go Golden Tempo! 🐎)

There is no way for me to cover all of the incredible fashion I spotted, so here is a sampling of some common (and some unexpected) categories of Derby wear.

Hats? at the Derby? Groundbreaking. 👒

The Kentucky Derby is arguably the most famous hat-wearing occasion in the world. While the hat tradition started out of practicality during the Derby’s origins in the late 1800s, when women had no other way to protect themselves from the spring southern sun, today the hats, fascinators, and hatinators are purely about fashion.

Here are some of the more impressive ones I saw:

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Costumes

This one surprised me. Of course everyone was in a costume of sorts, but a few fine folks took it to the next level.

‘Merica

There was a disturbing amount1 of America 250 garb at the Derby.

Fabulous Blazers

Men and women alike showed up with some impressive blazers. Many were in traditional Derby pastels or seersucker, while others were more on the nose with horse graphics or roses.

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Packing Tips

If you find yourself heading to Louisville for the big event, here are some essentials:

• a hat box for the plane that fits under the seat in front of you

• a very warm cardigan/faux fur or other outer layer - it is WAY colder in Kentucky in May than it looks on tv

• flats or sandals for walking to/from the parking lot and when your feet get tired after 10+ hours in heels

• a clear plastic stadium bag to carry your extra shoes

Don’t forget to follow fits_and_facts on Instagram for more content, including horsie footage.

The entire visit was full of symbolism. The planning for any state visit involves both explicit nods to the guest country - in the menu, dress, and invitees to the various festivities, but also careful consideration of the more implicit symbolism, depending on the goals of the visit.

This year marks American’s 250th birthday and as we all know (unless you are a Real Housewife of Rhode Island (IYKYK)) our birth comes from our separation from Britain, making King Charles kind of like our collective ex. Add to that the tension between us and the UK over the Iran war and the literal and figurative 🐘 in the room, and you’ve got quite the potential for impropriety and scandal.

But at least from a fashion perspective, the visit seems to have been a success.

In the most British way, Camilla made her (under)statements via brooch. During the first day of the Royal visit, the Queen wore a Cartier pin of a jeweled American and British flag. The significance of this accessory, beyond the obvious, is that it was originally given to Queen Elizabeth II by the United States during her first visit to America as Queen in 1957.

On Tuesday, Camilla wore a brooch containing the Cullinan V diamond, one beloved by her late mother-in-law, which came from the 3,000 carat Cullinan diamond, one of the largest diamonds ever found. It was “bought” by the British government from its colony at the time, South Africa, and broken up into nine large diamonds and 62 smaller ones. Nothing says royalty like wearing a diamond that has its own name and was stolen from a land you conquered.

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A Royal White House Welcome

Camilla and Melania dressed in similar attire for the White House welcome on Tuesday (although Camilla’s outfit had far more fabric than Melania’s).1 Both women wore homegrown designs - Camilla’s from British designer Fiona Clare and Melania’s from American Ralph Lauren.

One notable difference - Camilla carried a handbag while Melania did not. The choice to carry a purse is one major difference in American and British dress for officials who have staff to carry their stuff. Queen Elizabeth II used her handbag to discreetly signal her staff - letting them know when she was finished with a conversation or ready to leave an event without appearing rude or improper. Princess Kate Middleton reportedly also uses her clutch as a way to avoid shaking hands at certain events.

But despite the subdued attire of the hosts and guests, the White House event was full of pomp and circumstance. After all, if there was ever a reason to roll out the literal red carpet on the White House lawn it is for the king. There was even a revolutionary war re-enactor - which frankly seems a little in your face. Too soon Trump!

A Dinner Fit for a King?

The State Dinner attire was more flamboyant, but still fairly tame. The two “kings” (the White House’s words, not mine) were appropriately dressed for the white tie affair. But King Charles looked royal, while Trump looked more like a waiter, without a sash or medals of his own.

The two women wore pink. Queen Camilla wore a magenta gown from Anna Clare and a necklace worn by both Queen Victoria and Queen Mary, and again carried a handbag. Melania’s ballet pink dress and gloves ensemble was not by an American designer. It was Dior - whose CEO Delphine Arnault attended Trump’s 2025 inauguration and who Melania frequently wears for official events. Apparently America First does not apply to the first lady.

The “Special Relationship” in Fashion Through the Years

One of the reasons this visit was so monumental is the importance of the US-UK relationship, but also because of the rarity of visits by the British monarch stateside. While the princes and princesses are more frequent visitors, attending sporting events or chilling with American celebrities, there have only been a few state-level visits by the British King or Queen to Washington.

The first royal visit to the United States was in 1939, when King George VI and Queen Elizabeth I visited Washington and New York. FDR drove the royals through the streets of NYC and their highnesses tried their first hot dogs during the visit. 🌭

In 1957, the very young Queen Elizabeth II made her inaugural official visit to Washington, attending her first American football game in Maryland.

Queen Elizabeth visited Washington again in 1976. Here, dancing with President Gerald Ford during a state dinner, she looks far more Queen-like than Camilla does today, in my opinion.

Although not an visit at the monarch visit, I had to include a few images of the gorgeous Princess Diana. In one of the more well-documented moments, the Princess danced with John Travolta during her and then-Prince Charles’ visit to DC in 1985. The 80s fashions in the background of this photo are divine!

And as the Devil Wears Prada 2 👠 fever hits the US, I’ll close with this photo of the gorgeous Princess Diana with Vogue editor and inspiration for the devil herself, Anna Wintour.

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If you like what you read here, please do subscribe and share. I’m in a whirlwind of travel right now (hello from NYC!) and in the coming weeks will be sharing reports from my recent trip to Miami as well as my first time attending the Kentucky Derby 🐎, an iconic fashion destination.

Senegalese Fashion Tells a Story

Many Senegalese men and women wear some form of Boubou - a loose-fitting robe common across West Africa sometimes called the Senegalese kaftan (more on the kaftan wars of North West Africa in a later edition of Fits & Facts.) The style came from the Wolof and other trading people who needed the robe to protect them from the harshness of traversing the Sahara.

The Boubou can be quite formal, made of silk or shiny bazin fabric and intricately embroidered, or more casual and mono-colored and made of linen. Men may pair a shorter Boubou with matching pants. Women often pair the Boubou with a traditional headscarf known as a Moussour, which can be tied in a variety of ways and can denote one’s social standing and vary by occasion.

Another important aspect of Senegalese fashion is fabric. African wax printing, a unique technique that creates intricate, double-sided colorful prints on 100% cotton cloth, originated with Indonesian Batik printing techniques. Wax printing also conveys deep meaning and can include symbols of one’s family history or serve as a way to convey a political message.

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Another form of symbolism in Senegalese fashion is related to color. Senegalese national pride is everywhere in Dakar, with the colors of the flag (red, green, and gold) painted on murals, on lampposts and of course in clothing. The colors symbolize strength, prosperity and vitality.

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Shopping in Dakar

Dakar is full of traditional open air markets as well as standard shopping malls and modern boutiques akin to those you would find in Paris.

One of the highlights of the trip was a visit to Lulu Home Interior & Cafe a concept store and restaurant where we ate delicious salads and shopped the gorgeous textiles and home products.

In one room of the store was a man weaving baskets of all shapes and sizes. While I couldn’t fit a basket in my suitcase, I did snag a few of the cute tassels to use as purse charms so I can keep of piece of Dakar with me wherever I go.

Another form of self-expression that is prevalent all over Dakar is art. Many urban walls have beautiful murals painted on them - some with overt political and patriotic symbols and others more focused on nature.

I was also struck by the art adorning the walls of restaurants, much of which was for sale. I was particularly taken by the wide variety of depictions of women I saw around the city.

I can’t end this without sharing a few pictures of some of the amazing creatures I encountered in Senegal. Until next week…

Despite my love for over-packing, I have fully transitioned into a carry-on only gal and I am here to tell you, that you can be one too! While it seems easier to just lug a big ‘ol suitcase and throw everything in, once you embrace the joy of never having to visit baggage claim, you too will be converted.

Packing a carry on for an extended trip is both a skill and an art. It starts with having the right bags.

The luggage

I just returned from a week in Dakar, Senegal for work where I had to pack a variety of professional, casual and dressy outfits (and leave room for souvenirs to bring home, obvi). This was an easy task for my go-to luggage set up:

• Suitcase: I have had great experiences with LOJEL suitcases (supposedly the lightest weight out there) and am currently using a Quince carry on (basically an Away knock-off). It has a fabulous compression compartment so you can really squeeze a lot in there. I even managed to pack my favorite hat to protect me from the Senegal sun. 😎

• Personal item: this Alex Mill tote bag is everything. On this last trip, I fit my laptop, iPad, kindle, handbag, many small travel pouches, a wrap, water bottle, and snacks.

• Cincha belt: the only downside to my tote is that it does not have a sleeve to slip over your luggage handle. This is where the trusty Cincha belt comes to the rescue. It attaches around any bag and easily slips on and off.

  

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On the plane:

• AirFly: Twelve South’s AirFly is a game-changer. It allows you to use your AirPods or other bluetooth-enabled headphones on the plane’s video screen.

• Reusable clear bag: Even TSA Pre-Checkers need a clear bag for the return trip of international travel. I got one for free some time ago, and it has been incredibly useful. I recommend buying one of these for each person in your party. It is waterproof, see-through and roomy and much sturdier than a standard Ziploc.

• Wrap/blanket: After hearing a disgusting story from comedian Nicole Byer about finding something unsavory in her airplane blanket, I always travel with some sort of wrap or scarf. My current favorite is this cashmere wrap from C by Bloomingdale’s, but any large scarf will do. It can do double-duty for overly-air conditioned meetings or be rolled up as a pillow.

• Neck pillow: There are lots of opinions about travel neck pillows, but IMHO the Trtl takes the cake. It has a gazillion 5-star reviews, provide great neck support, is much smaller than a traditional neck pillow and can clip easily on the outside of your bag to save space.

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Out and about:

• I have been a reMarkable user for a few years now and it has basically become a part of me. Instead of carting around notebooks and paper or a laptop, I take my reMarkable to every meeting and use it daily for my incessant to-do lists. It is also great on family trips - my younger daughter loves to draw with it.

• I will close with an ode to the Clare V. Moyen Messenger. This puppy is roomy beyond belief, chic, and comfortable to carry around town. It is pricey, but super high quality and very versatile. I often put on different straps and charms and it can become many different bags for different occasions. I have taken her all over the world and I can never believe how much stuff I can fit inside. Here is a “what’s in my bag” shot from Dakar. In addition to all of this below, I had a small water bottle in the bag.

While today the flowering cherry trees are an excuse to cover the city in pink, they began as a symbol of American-Japanese friendship and have weathered not only climate change, but also serious threats to the Washington-Tokyo relationship.

History of the Cherry Blossoms

DC’s famous cherry blossoms began as a gift from Tokyo Mayor Yukio Ozaki in 1912 to symbolize Japanese-American friendship. Japan donated 3,020 trees of 12 different varieties to the United States, who adorned the capitol city. The United States, in turn, gifted flowering dogwood trees to Tokyo (fun fact: there is a Dogwood Tree Festival in Japan each year).

But getting that donation did not come easy. The first cherry blossom ambassador of sorts was Eliza Ruhamah Scidmore, a writer, photographer and geographer who had fallen in love with the blossoms while visiting Japan and spent 24 years (!) advocating for Japanese cherry trees to be planted along the Potomac River. Scidmore eventually got First Lady Helen Taft on board with the idea and they worked with a Japanese chemist who donated an initial tranche of 2,000 trees in 1910, but those trees unfortunately were infested and had to be destroyed. (Eliza was an impressive lady - she was also the first woman on the board of the National Geographic Society.)

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The trees have come under some controversy. In 1938, a group of women chained themselves together to protest the removal of cherry trees at the Tidal Basin for construction of the Jefferson Memorial in what became known as the “Cherry Tree Rebellion”.

The result was a planting of more trees to frame the Memorial, in what is now the most photographed and visited spot to see the trees in DC.

During WWII, some trees were vandalized following the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor and the annual Cherry Blossom Festival was put on hold until the end of the war. The war also harmed many of the original trees in Tokyo that had spawned the DC specimens. In 1952, the US National Park Service sent some budwood from the descendants of the original DC trees back to Tokyo to help repopulate the damaged grove. This happened again in the 1980s when a stock of Yoshino cherry trees in Japan was destroyed by a flood - the Park Service worked to help replace the Yoshino grove in Tokyo.

Blossoms in Fashion

Around this time of year, blossoms and pink pop up all over the city. Businesses display a cherry decal in their window and even the city busses and trains get wrapped in flowers.

DC sports teams get in on the cherry blossom fun by adopting seasonal uniforms celebrating the trees.

Even DC’s subway (Metro) got in on the game, creating its own blossom merch.

The city is swimming in ways to show your blossom spirit. Here is a selection of just a few items from area museum shops and local vendors that range from the not-so-subtle to the more nuanced:

I am a sucker for anything blossom and I am somewhat embarrassed to say that I own four pairs of cherry blossom earrings alone.

If you are going to shop for cherry blossom gear, please shop locally. One of my favorite spots is Shop Made in DC, where everything is (you guessed it!) made in DC. And if you find anything fun, let me know. You can never be too pink in DC in spring.

Fits & Facts will be taking a short break, as I will be on the road the next few weeks for work travel and spring break. The good news is that I will be visiting some fashion hot spots on both sides of the Atlantic and will be back April 24 with reports from my travels.

The image that inspired me was from the launch of President Trump’s “Board of Peace” (which took place just 9 days before Trump launched a war - go figure).

Where’s Wiles?

This picture is remarkable for many reasons, but what jumps out immediately is the woman in the front row of the photo - Kosovo President Vjosa Osmani-Sadriu. Contrast her stark white suit with the outfit worn by Susie Wiles, Trump’s chief of staff, who is barely noticeable in her navy suit sandwiched between Marco Rubio and Jared Kushner in similar attire.

President Osmani’s choice to wear white is very effective. While the men in suits blend together, she stands out and commands our attention. She made a similar fashion choice at the Davos launch of the Board of Peace, going even bolder in red:

Legendary publisher of the Washington Post Katherine Graham was often the only woman in a room and did not shy away from wearing feminine clothing that matched her personal style. While she was more constrained by the fashion mores of the time than women today, she nevertheless exuded strength, power and style by distinguishing herself from the men around her.

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Crazy Historical Note: Women were not allowed to wear pants on the U.S. Senate Floor until 1993, after Carol Moseley Braun accidentally changed history by showing up in an Armani pantsuit for her swearing in as the first Black woman in the Senate, inspiring other women to join her and push for a rule change. 1993! 🤯

Menswear can be a Fashion Fail

Other women leaders choose to take a less individual or attention grabbing approach towards their fashion. Case in point: Angela Merkel and Hillary Clinton - two women who never met a pantsuit they didn’t like. There are a disturbing number of photographs of them wearing nearly identical outfits - usually black pants with a dowdy blazer, normally in a neutral but sometimes in a brighter color. Here are a few:

Clinton has arguably been the most scrutinized political figure, fashion and appearance-wise, so her choice to go more of a blend-in route makes sense. But if you are going to choose menswear, invest in some tailoring for a sleeker feel and….

Accessorize like a pro

Some women who are more constrained by uniforms or cultural fashion rules choose to show their style by accessorizing. One of the most famous is Ruth Bader Ginsberg, whose wide array of collars not only made her stand out among her male colleagues but also conveyed specific meanings and messages.

Another example is Ana Botín, Chair of the Board of Directors of Santander, whose chic scarves add a layer of sophistication and whimsy to her fits.

Bottom Line: Don’t Let Anyone Else Dictate Your Style

• Women are judged way more than men on how they look. Yes, it is 2026, but the world is still misogynistic. So rather than fear the judgement, own it. The first suit I ever bought (for my summer internship in DC during college) was a grey wool pant suit. It was hideous. And uncomfortable (wool in DC summer is a recipe for sweat). I was so afraid of being judged as a young, female intern that I dressed like a middle-aged man.

• Find your most confident outfit and copy it. Everyone has one or two pieces of clothing that make them feel special. Figure out what that is for you - whether it is an entire outfit, a pair of shoes or some jewelry and figure out how to replicate that feeling. Is it the color? The cut? The fabric? Whatever it is that gives you the confidence boost, don’t be afraid to incorporate it into your regular wardrobe. Confidence is the most important skill you can bring into a room where you don’t “fit in”.

• Dress like yourself. Don’t let the “culture” of the room dictate what you wear. If you like navy pantsuits, wear a navy pantsuit. But if you normally wear flowery dresses, don’t change your ‘fit to fit in (get it?? 😜) When I went to work at the Pentagon, a colleague advised me to only wear pants if I wanted to be taken seriously. As someone who usually wears dresses and skirts to work, I found this constricting and costume-ish rather than confidence-building. I gave up on the pants within the first week. And guess what? I was taken just as seriously in a dress as I was in pants.

I’ll leave you with some more examples of women exhibiting their own style while commanding traditionally male spaces:

While it is plausible that Marco Rubio (aka the administration’s hypocrite in chief) is so afraid of Donald Trump that he would go out in public looking like a toddler playing dress up, I have not seen anything to corroborate this.

However, it is giving aspiring autocrat, so I thought we at Fits & Facts could offer him some practical advice on what to wear when you want to exude power and authority, but also make sure you remain the center of attention.

To dress like an autocrat you have two paths to choose from:

1. Homogenous style (usually military-adjacent) for the “man of the people”

2. Flamboyant style for the King in all but title

Homogenous style: I’m one of you (except superior in every way)

Pros:

• Your morning routine just got a lot simpler — consider this the ultimate capsule wardrobe.

• Effortlessly blends into the crowd.

Cons:

• Boring.

• You might need a way to differentiate yourself from your comrades - accessories are your friend here. Don’t be afraid to add some sunnies, a hat or bestow yourself with a medal or two to make sure you stand out just enough.

Example: Kim Jong-il

The former North Korean leader was famous for his drab khaki safari suits and massive sunglasses.

Pro tip: Dictators should tower over their subjects literally and figuratively. For short kings, borrow a habit from Kim Jong-il and add 5 inch heels to your outfit for an instant authority boost!

(Fun fact: for several years I dressed as the Dear Leader for Halloween. One of my most embarrassing moments was showing up at a grad school party on Halloween where everyone thought I was a strange new Korean student and no one realized I was wearing a costume!)

Example: Mao Zedong

The original "quiet luxury" boyboss. His gray Zhongshan suit was so on-brand that an entire nation adopted it. When your aesthetic becomes national policy, you've truly made it.

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Flamboyant Style: I’m Sexy and I Know It

Pros:

• There is no question that you are the one in charge.

• The world is your personal mood board — and darling, there are no rules when you make the rules.

Cons:

• Looking this good has a price tag, and people will absolutely ask where the money came from. Develop a thick skin — or just arrest the journalists.

Example: Jean-Bédel Bokassa

He declared himself Emperor of the Central African Republic while others called him the Butcher of Bangui because he fed his opponents to crocodiles and lions and was rumored to engage in cannibalism. Bokassa commissioned a Napoleon-inspired coronation ensemble so extravagant — white ermine robes, jeweled crown, gold eagle throne — that it reportedly cost his country $20-30 million. Commitment to the bit: unmatched.

Example: Imelda Marcos

The former First Lady of the Philippines, Governor of Metro Manila, cabinet member and legislator, was the epitome of ostentatious dress. While her husband’s administration was busy stealing a reported $10 billion from the Filipino people, Imelda was rumored to amass 3,000 pairs of shoes (although most estimates put the amount somewhere between 1,200-2,000).

Trump may not have reached full dictator yet - in fashion or policy - but at the end of the day, the most important accessory any aspiring autocrat can wear is a room full of people too afraid to tell them their shoes don't fit.

And a quick PSA to those surrounding him: if you do happen to find yourself in shoes that are two sizes too big — maybe, just maybe, that's the universe telling you something.

Editor's Note: Fits & Facts does not endorse authoritarianism — only the fits

On a different note: the Academy Awards are Sunday night. For those watching, keep and eye out for political wear on the red carpet. I expect to see anti-ICE buttons and perhaps some references to the Iran war. If anything interesting pops up, we will cover it next week.

For a while, I have been wanting to interrogate the fashion choices of world leaders whose countries are at war, and now seems like an appropriate time to do so. In researching this topic, I found that there are three broad types of wartime leaders:

1. In a war and dressed for battle

2. In a war but dressed for the boardroom

3. Not in a war right now, but dressed for battle anyway

Each of these choices has important implications for the leader’s image, their power projection (both at home and abroad) and public diplomacy writ large.

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Group 1: I’m Fighting a War and You Best Not Forget it

The first person who comes to mind in this category is Ukrainian leader Volodymyr Zelensky. His choice of military-style clothing from his famous tee-shirts to full on fatigues has been a subject of great debate, but despite criticism from Trump about his informal wear during a February 2025 White House meeting, his fashion always leans somber.

The goal for folks in this category is to remind the public - particularly foreign audiences - that your country is in the midst of war. Zelensky, who spends a significant amount of time rallying Western support for Ukraine, is better able to project the seriousness of his mission as well as an air of mourning that befits the position Ukraine finds itself in. Additionally, casual dress is a sign of solidarity with the Ukrainian people, saying, “I am one of you” rather than telegraphing superiority as many other leaders have used military dress to convey.

Another interesting example is Daniel Ortega, the leader of Nicaragua’s Sandinista Revolution in 1979, who during his first presidential term (1985-1990) regularly wore military fatigues, as the Contra War continued.

Ortega returned to power in 2007 (and remains president today), but having reinvented himself politically, he also changed his dress from military-forward to Florida retiree-chic. Today, his fashion reflects an intentional distancing from his (and the country’s) revolutionary past.

Group 2: Yes, We are at War, but I am an Executive, not a Soldier

One of the more prominent members of this second group is Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, who has overseen multiple conflicts during his three terms in office but is always dressed in Western business attire. This is largely a reflection of the principle of civilian control of the military, which Israel shares with other democracies.

An interesting contrast in civilian versus military dress in wartime is that of the Allied leaders during and after World War II. On one end of the spectrum, Charles de Gaulle, who was a military leader during the war, wore military dress well into his civilian presidency of France more than a decade later. De Gaulle’s entire career was built on his role liberating France and despite occupying a civilian position, he would not let the public forget where he came from.

On the other end of the spectrum, Franklin D. Roosevelt always wore civilian dress out of respect for the American tradition of civilian control over the military.

And in the middle, Winston Churchill alternated between civilian and military-style, having a strong personal history as a member of the armed forces and a love of military pageantry, but also using his civilian image to project confidence to the British public.

Group 3: So What if We Aren’t Actively at War? One Could Start Any Time and I’m Ready!

This third category was common amongst Cold War Communists, whose choice of olive green signified a rejection of materialism and a form of unity among like-minded nations.

Cuba’s revolutionary leader Fidel Castro continued to wear military fatigues for decades after the end of the Cuban Revolution in 1959. Having come to power through armed conflict, he did not want anyone to forget his bona fides.

Thomas Sankara, Burkina Faso’s revolutionary leader who came to power via coup in 1983 and was killed in a palace coup in 1987, wore fatigues to symbolize austerity and anti-imperialism. He changed the country’s name from Upper Volta to Burkina Faso (meaning “the honest man’s country”) and built his image around solidarity with the people.

Perhaps the most flamboyant military dresser was Muammar Gaddafi. Colonel Gaddafi did serve in the military, but never fought in a conventional war and came to power in a bloodless coup in 1969. Perhaps more than any world leader, Gaddafi used fashion to make political statements, including imagery of the African continent, of which he fancied himself the leader, and a growing number of medals and other insignia that he awarded himself. Gaddafi’s fashion warrants far more explanation - stay tuned for a future Fits & Facts for more.

Wartime Women

I would be remiss if I did not also mention some of the women who led their countries during wars.

Three examples of women who were known for carrying out tough and decisive military actions, Golda Meir (Prime Minister of Israel from 1969-1974), Margaret Thatcher (Prime Minister of the UK from 1979-1990), and Indira Gandhi (Prime Minister of India from 1966-1977 and 1980-1984) hardly dressed the part. None of them adopted military wear. It seems these women were confident enough in their ability to project power without having to dress up as a soldier. Interesting.

Fashion as a political statement entered the SOTU a long time ago, arguably from its incarnation, with attendees intentionally wearing muted clothes so as not to distract from the president’s oratory.

Even the very first SOTU in 1790, had a fashion-policy nexus. George Washington proudly wore an American-made wool suit. He had been accused of wearing foreign wool to his inauguration the previous year, but confirmed that both suits were from Wadsworth’s Hartford Woolen Manufactory of Connecticut. “Buy American” apparently goes back to the founding fathers!

Another long-standing tradition: Supreme Court Justices wear their traditional robes. This is an historical choice that is meant to convey the separateness of the judicial branch from both Congress and the Executive.

Fast forward to today, when attendees intentionally distract from the president with their outfits - in some very loud and obvious and some more subtle ways.

From Purple to Partisan

The most obvious (and IMHO opinion tired) fashion choice of an attendee is wearing red for Republicans and blue for Democrats or, almost worse, wearing red, white and blue to show how “patriotic” you are.

BTW, this is right up there with wearing a flag pin - a political do/fashion don’t that both parties are guilty of. Check out Virginia Governor Abigail Spanberger’s monstrosity of a flag pin during the official Democratic response to this year’s SOTU:

SOTU fashion used to be less red and blue. During the heady early Obama years, then-House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, First Lady Michelle Obama and VEEP Joe Biden all wore purple. While some doubted this was a coordinated effort, others read this as a symbol of unity and bipartisanship.

Purple had made a notable appearance earlier - in 2005 during George W. Bush’s address, attendees were encouraged to wear the color of the ink used to mark Iraqi voters’ fingers during their first democratic election, a cornerstone of Bush foreign policy.

At SOTUs We Wear White

One of the more notable fashion trends of the past decade is the Democratic Women’s Caucus’ use of white, which they began during Trump’s first SOTU in 2017, and continue to wear at SOTUs and other important political moments.1 The white is a nod to the suffragettes who fought for American women’s right to vote in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The suffragettes wore white as a way to stand out in black and white photos against dark city scapes.

Additionally, to acknowledge the exclusion of people of color from the suffrage movement, congresswoman Ayanna Pressley (D-MA) wore a white coat with a kente-cloth handbag stating on then-Twitter: “Tonight, I honor women like #AlicePaul who led the movement & women like #IdaB who were excluded from it.” And in 2020, Rashida Tlaib, a Palestinian-American, wore a white thobe (traditional Palestinian dress) to signify both her Palestinian heritage and her alliance with the Caucus.

The white not only symbolizes a connection with the broader American women’s political movement, but also a recognition that women’s rights continue to be under threat.

In a similar vein, members of the Congressional Black Caucus wore black with kente cloth in 2018 in protest over President Trump’s derogatory language around African countries.

Foreign Policy Fashion Statements

Ever since the start of the Russia-Ukraine war, some Members of Congress have been voicing their support for Ukraine via SOTU fashion. In 2024, Rep. Bill Pascrell Jr. (D-NJ) draped a Ukrainian flag over his shoulders. Others regularly wear blue and yellow ties or Ukrainian flag pins (next to their America flag ones, obvi).

The Gaza War was also front and center in 2024 when several attendees wore Palestinian kafiyyehs and held signs reading “Lasting Ceasefire Now” while others wore the number 153 to signify the number of Israeli hostages held in Gaza.

More Subtle Choices

Over the years, SOTU attendees have often opted for less visible statements such as ribbons or pins. Attendees have worn various ribbons in memory of the victims of gun violence, from green ribbons in 2013 after the Sandy Hook massacre or black and white ribbons after the 2011 shooting that wounded Rep. Gabrielle Giffords.

At this year’s SOTU, several Democrats wore pins reading “Stand with Survivors. Release the Files” in reference to Jeffrey Epstein.

2026-SOTU fashion in its Meh Era

This year’s SOTU was one of the more boring on the fashion front. For more of my take on this year’s fashions (?) check out this video I recorded for Carnegie:

And if you want to hear what I think about RFK’s weird skinny tie and overuse of self-tanner, reach out:

"I just use fashion as an excuse to talk about politics. Because I'm a fashion designer, it gives me a voice, which is really good." — Vivienne Westwood

New York Fashion Week (NYFW), one of the world’s biggest fashion events and the start of global “Fashion Month”, wrapped up its Winter 2026 edition on Monday. And while the event has largely managed to avoid global politics (with a few notable exceptions below), it started off as very much a geopolitical endeavor.

The first NYFW

NYFW began in 1943 when fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert came up with the idea of consolidating several fashion shows into one event which she dubbed “Fashion Press Week.”

In the midst of World War II, American fashion buyers and journalists, who would normally visit Paris for fashion ideas, were unable to travel to German-occupied France. Lambert, who sought to promote American designers, took advantage of the inaccessibility of the Parisian fashion scene to bring the press to New York.

In doing so, she elevated the American fashion industry, with fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar featuring American designs over French for the first time.

Prior to the establishment of Press Week, American fashion houses got all of their inspiration from European designers. As Tim Gunn said, “Before World War II, we were a nation of copiers.”

Lambert eventually took her promotion of American fashion on the road, serving as a Fashion Diplomat for the State Department in Russia, Germany, Italy, Australia, Japan, the United Kingdom and Switzerland, using fashion as a form of soft power.

Later, when incoming First Lady Jackie Kennedy was criticized in Women’s Wear Daily for wearing French instead of American labels, Lambert connected her with American designer Oleg Cassini who became her personal courtier and was known as the “Secretary of Style.” Jackie remains synonymous with fashion, and her adoption of a “buy America” attitude was as important for American global positioning on the couture stage as it was for her own image.

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The Battle of Versailles: Paris Fashion Week is Born

French and American fashion elite competed for bragging rights in 1973 at the “Battle of Versailles” fashion show - a fundraiser to help restore the deteriorating Palace of Versailles. Five American and five French designers put forward their best looks for a crowd of hundreds of judgey couture fans.

While this was not an official competition, the Americans carried off an upset - wowing the celebrity-filled audience with both their sporty (vice fussy French) looks and use of Black designers and models - a rarity for the early 1970s. American fashion became synonymous with inclusivity and accessibility and was no longer seen as second (or third or fourth) rate to French fashion. The event also spawned Paris Fashion Week.

NYFW and Human Rights

NYFW, as a major global platform, has at times played a role in drawing attention to international labor conditions and human rights. In 2011, NYFW’s organizers came out against forced and child labor within the state-controlled cotton industry in Uzbekistan. Gulnara Karimova, the daughter of Uzbekistan’s autocratic leader (and the country’s ambassador to Spain and the UN), was scheduled to show her fashion line, Guli, at the September event. However, Human Rights Watch, who had been documenting the Uzbek government’s human rights abuses, organized a campaign to both cancel the Guli show and get retailers to pledge not to buy Uzbek cotton.

The campaign was highly successful, with 331 international brands and retailers joining the boycott. As a result, in 2014 the Uzbek government banned child labor and eliminated forced labor in the cotton industry in 2021.

In a similar vein, in 2021 NYFW confronted issues around forced labor in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR), which produced 23 percent of the world’s cotton at the time. Members of the US Congress pressured NYFW organizers to confirm that no brands that use XUAR cotton would participate in the event. And in 2022 the United States passed a law requiring brands and retailers to divest from XUAR cotton.

What is Fashion Week without Politics?

Despite its geopolitical origins, NYFW is not intended to be a political event. But the media attention, high profile celebrity attendees, and participation of brands and retailers from around the world means that current events - both local and global - often bleed into the festivities.

Take this most recent event. While last week’s NYFW was less overtly political than in years past, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA - NYFW’s organizing body) did informally partner with the ACLU to distribute the same “ICE Out” buttons seen at the Golden Globes and the Grammys to designers, editors, producers and other attendees of NYFW.

Because the CFDA is a nonprofit, they cannot engage in partisan political advocacy, but much like its early iterations, NYFW has repeatedly served both as a way to amplify American designers and as an unofficial platform for liberal American values - even when those values are at odds with the sitting US administration.

For the first edition of Fits & Facts, I am turning my attention to the 2026 Winter Olympics. While watching the games the past few days, I have been struck by which companies are outfitting which athletes.

It is no surprise that we are seeing more luxury brands enter the arena with fashion mecca Milan as one of the host cities - from Armani dressing the Italian team, to the return of Moncler after a nearly 60 year absence, to the entrance of AlphaTauri. But what has surprised me is seeing athletes prominently displaying brands from countries other than their own.

I’m knee-deep in research right now on the evolution of US soft power - much more on this in later newsletters - and how nations dress their athletes is one way a country can send a message about its strength.

I put together this table showing how 24 of the 93 Olympic teams have approached the national branding issue.1

While most teams are sponsored by local fashion houses, a few teams chose to wear Italian brands 🇮🇹 - a nice nod to their host country and Italy’s reputation for fashion excellence.

The best local-Italian collab (and one of the most gorgeous looks IMO) is Team Haiti’s🇭🇹 hand-painted Opening Ceremonies outfits by Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean. This is a beautiful amplification of Haitian culture and imagery with a nod to Italian artisans.

Contrast that with the South Korean kit.

South Korea 🇰🇷 is clearly outfitted by American 🇺🇸 company The North Face with the black logo the most prominent symbol on the uniform.2 The juxtaposition of a country’s flag with a different country’s clothing brand logo might seem innocuous, but it is, in fact, a form of (in this case American) power projection.

Brazil 🇧🇷 also represented a collaboration, with the French 🇫🇷 company Moncler enlisting Brazilian designer Oskar Metsavaht in a creation that was undoubtedly focused on Brazil and not the brand. Additionally, Brazilian flag bearer Lucas Pinheiro Braathen has a larger brand partnership with Moncler Grenoble, which makes this sponsorship even less random.

A somewhat puzzling choice is Team Sweden’s 🇸🇪 sponsorship by Japanese 🇯🇵 company Uniqlo. There are numerous home-grown Swedish outerwear companies, but Sweden chose to go (far) outside its borders, giving Uniqlo’s red and white label a place of prominence.

Finally, we have German 🇩🇪 giant Adidas, sponsoring both its home team and six others, including at least parts of the uniforms for the UK 🇬🇧, Turkey 🇹🇷, Ethiopia 🇪🇹, Poland 🇵🇱, Hungary 🇭🇺 and Brazil 🇧🇷.

So what?

It is obvious what a company gets out of sponsoring an Olympic team - tons of product placement, association with greatness and athleticism and that warm Olympic glow (plus the belief that some of that will translate into sales). What isn’t as clear is what a country gets from its companies sponsoring athletes.

To be clear, corporations are not countries, even in non-democratic settings. But, the Olympics are all about national unity and pride. And when an athlete on the medal podium smiles broadly while their national anthem blares, the logo on their chest is a powerful symbol that can build on that national pride or distract from it.

The choice to give up prime advertising real estate to another country is, to use a sports metaphor, an own-goal of sorts.

So here I award the Gold Medal in Olympic Branding to Germany 🏅. To not only outfit your own team but also partner with countries across the globe, Adidas is spreading German soft power in subtle and not so-subtle ways.

I award the Silver Medal to Mongolia 🇲🇳, whose sponsorship by a Goyol, a Mongolian cashmere brand, is bringing me all sorts of cozy feelings in the eternal winter not-so-wonderland that is DC in 2026.

And I’ve got to give the Bronze to Team USA 🇺🇸. The enduring partnership with iconic brand Ralph Lauren brings a touch of classic style to the team’s outfits and has really helped keep Ralph Lauren relevant.

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Welcome to Fits & Facts

This newsletter will examine the relationship between fashion and foreign policy. As someone who has traveled the world studying the relationship between people and their government, I’m fascinated by power dynamics and communication.

The way people communicate non-verbally - through their clothing, their expressions, and their setting - can sometimes speak even louder than their words.

Who is Fits & Facts for?

This is a space for people who pay attention to what’s happening in the world, but want to read between the lines.

I’ll be critiquing fashion - but from a foreign policy lens. Let’s be clear - I am no Anna Wintour! I have 20+ years of political science training and 0 years of fashion experience (unless working at the Gap in the 1990s counts).

I’ll also be critiquing foreign policy - with a focus on fashion and imagery - to understand what political leaders, civil society activists and others on the world stage are saying before they open their mouths.

What will Fits & Facts do?

This is my first foray into the Substack world, so please bear with me as I learn to navigate this space. I hope to publish weekly and plan to cover a wide variety of topics related to how world leaders use fashion (intentionally or not) to convey messages, how fashion has contributed to resistance or revolution, the role of symbolism in generating power and maybe even offer some fashion tips from experts to help us all make DC (and the world) a little less drab 🤞🏻.

Stay tuned for my first substantive post, looking at fashion branding and the Winter Olympics. ⛸️

Let’s come together and share thoughts, ideas and analysis about how our style choices amplify or muddle our messaging and what it all means for the world we live in today. I’m eager to hear what you think!